Model too big for your printer? Cut it into pieces that fit.

How it works

1. 1. Drop in an STL, 3MF or OBJ and choose your printer's bed size. The longest axis is picked for you, since that is usually the one that does not fit.
2. 2. The tool works out the fewest cuts needed and divides the model evenly — equal pieces print more reliably than a full bed followed by a sliver.
3. 3. Pick a connector. Pins go on one side of each joint and matching sockets on the other, placed automatically in the thickest part of the cut face.
4. 4. Download a ZIP with one 3MF per piece, print them, and glue the joints.

Choosing a connector

Cylinder

A round dowel pin — the default, and the right answer most of the time. It prints cleanly in any orientation and has no corners to catch as the pieces come together. Use two per joint so the pieces cannot rotate against each other.

Rectangular prism

A square key. Because it cannot rotate in its socket, a single one locks the joint against twisting — useful on a narrow cross-section with only room for one.

Triangular prism

Keys the pieces together one way round only. Worth using when the two faces are nearly symmetrical and you would otherwise glue a piece on backwards.

None

A plain flat cut, for when you would rather align by hand or use your own dowels.

Getting a clean joint

Print the cut face down. A flat face on the bed comes out flatter than the same face printed in mid-air, and a flat face glues better. Rotate each piece in your slicer so its cut face sits on the plate.

Test the clearance before committing. 0.2 mm suits most printers. If your parts usually come out tight, raise it to 0.3 and reprint just the joint area rather than discovering the problem on a twelve-hour print.

Cut through the narrowest part. A smaller cross-section means a smaller joint to hide, though also less glue area — for a load-bearing part, favour the bigger face.

Common questions

How do I print a model bigger than my printer?

Cut it into pieces that each fit the bed, print them separately, then glue them together. Drop the model in here, pick your bed size, and the tool works out the minimum number of cuts and adds alignment connectors at each joint. A 450 mm model on a 256 mm printer becomes two 225 mm pieces.

What are the connectors for?

They are pins on one piece and matching sockets on the other, so the pieces can only go together one way and stay aligned while the glue sets. Without them you are eyeballing two flat faces, which is where crooked joins come from. Cylinder, rectangular and triangular connectors are available, or none for a plain flat cut.

What connector size should I use?

The 6 mm default suits most joints. Go bigger on thick cross-sections for strength, smaller on thin walls. The clearance setting is the gap between pin and socket — 0.2 mm suits most printers, but raise it if your prints come out tight and the pieces will not seat.

Will the pieces actually fit back together?

Yes. The cut is a single flat plane through the model, so the two faces are exact mirrors, and the socket is made wider than the pin by the clearance you set. Every piece is checked to be a closed, watertight solid before you download it.

Which way should I cut?

The tool defaults to the longest axis, which is usually the one that does not fit. You can switch to X, Y or Z — each option shows that dimension so you can see which is the problem. Cutting through the narrowest cross-section gives the smallest, strongest joint.

Is my model uploaded?

No. The file is read, cut and repackaged entirely inside your browser tab, and the ZIP is built on your device. Nothing is sent to us, so there is no size-based charge and no account.